TRAVEL JOURNAL 15: THE MOUNTAIN HOMESTEAD

We stayed this past week in the gentle, curving mountains of Eastern Ardèche. Shapes of hips and shoulders, knees and elbows form the landscape.Everywhere golden light spills through the tall, dark fir trees.The forest is littered with smooth, narrow pine cones, and the rocks glitter with hidden twinkles in the sunlight.The Romans left their mark…

TRAVEL JOURNAL 14: THE HERB FARM

This isn’t the Teenager’s favorite week of the adventure, but it might be mine….we are staying at a farm that grows herbs and processes them into balms, essential oil, infused oils, and soaps.We’re staying in a tiny little town in Doubs, described by a guy we met in the bus as a “little Venice”.There are…

TRAVEL JOURNAL 12: SHEEP RODEO

We helped in a minor way with shearing the sheep while we stayed in Alsace. It’s a difficult job to restrain a wiggling sheep and shear thick wool away from its skin without hurting it, so our job was just to catch them, turn them into a sitting position (much harder than it sounds), and…

TRAVEL JOURNAL 11: Alsace

We are staying very close to the German border, among the low, rolling mountains of the Vosges. The air is much thicker here than in the alps. Tall pine trees cover the land except where it is cleared for pasture or hay, and the little houses far away look made of gingerbread. It is a…

Last Hike

Last hike in Savoie before we leave. Two dogs from the Fromagerie came along with me. I feel like I’ve left a little piece of my heart here.

The Fromagerie

The next day is cold and rainy in the morning, and it’s just me because the Teenager warned me not to wake him up early “or else”. This means the backpack is WAY lighter. I am prepared with a waterproof backpack cover and raincoat. They are still milking when I arrive, so I wait and…

Out With The Goats

A neighbor has a fromagerie where they make cheese from goat and sheep’s milk. In the past few days, several sheep and goats were killed by wolves. They have a guardian dog, but he is very young. Our host asks if we would like to go stay with the goats and sheep in the pasture…

TRAVEL JOURNAL 6: THE MAGIC HOUSE

We wake up the next morning and hear roosters crowing in the yard. I have missed animals. There are chickens, a friendly barn cat, a playful dog with beautiful ice-blue eyes, two cows, a donkey that trumpets loudly from time to time, and a draft horse. The farm here specializes in training draft animals. There…

Travel Journal 5: Escape

Morale is high when we are finally out of the clutches of the Medieval House, like being set free from a prison work camp, despite feeling simultaneously hungry and ill after the week-long bread and raw vegetables diet. Problems with railroad near Digne make it necessary to take a bus at St. Andre. The Teenager…

Travel Journal 4: The Medieval House

After a top-speed, swerving ride over a mountain, interupted by a flock of sheep, we stay somewhere in the Alps-Martimes. The house was once the home of a medieval knight and has been beautifully restored. The garden is full of raspberries and rose bushes, and there is a little white dog. At first glance it…

Travel Journal 3: The Monastary Garden

The monastery near the Roman-Gaulish ruins had a beautiful garden we explored. It was large and diverse, with large rose beds first, and tall trellises for climbing roses. There were so many lovely colors and shapes, including a violet rose. Beyond this were the most beautiful flower beds planted according to color in geometric patterns….