The afternoon of the second day, the sun is low and after the heroic walk up to the ruins a soak in the ocean sounds appealing, so we go to the beach. It isn’t as good as the Florida beaches. There’s no sand, only rocks that slide and hurt your feet so you have to hobble, and practically no waves. People just sun bathe or bob lamely around in the water, which is very blue and clear.

We sign up for a ride on a parachute dragged behind a boat. I went paragliding in Switzerland when I was 17 and it was an experience I’ve never forgotten, so I had spent all day talking the teenager into going. They take our money and we don’t even have to sign any liability waiver.

Waiting in line we watch two sets of Japanese girls go first. They return pale, shaken, and almost in tears, but we already have the harnesses strapped onto us and it is too late. Suddenly it is our turn, and as we are running towards the water with the parachute inflating behind, I wonder what I was thinking when I thought this was a good idea. Suddenly we are up in the air with the white wake of the boat in the blue water under our dangling feet.

I hope with all my heart the flimsy carabeeners we are clipped in with are actually sturdier than they appear as we look down and see how very tiny the people on the beach have become.

The boat driver races out to sea with us, turning slowly so we float sickeningly down and skim the water, and then speeds up so we are dragged through the waves a minute before soaring back up again. It is really fun, only the harness is not exactly comfortable, especially not if you are male. Teenager screaming about it beside me. Boat driver seems to be aware and is grinning sadistically up at us as he takes yet another turn.

At the end the boat pulls up just shy of the shore and we are dumped into the water finally. It is like jumping off a bridge in slow motion, and we swim ashore soaked and laughing with nerves. The teenager loved it and wants to go again but it is not in the budget, so we stir up the people bobbing in the water by having swimming races.

That night I try to sleep but I keep seeing blue water, boat, and wake under my dangling feet when I close my eyes. All my limbs feel ominously hollow.

Wake up day 3 sore all over and hardly able to move. Try to stretch and hurt myself. Apparently being dragged behind a boat attached to a parachute requires muscles I hardly ever use. Onward to our first farm stay today. Wish us luck please.