Free Knitting Pattern # 2: Little Hearts Mitts

It’s been ages since I had picked up any knitting, and I had a big bag of lovely yarn staring at me from my knitting basket on top of the piano.  I just wasn’t inspired.  It was just too hot in December to think about knitting.

When the cold weather hit at last, I remembered that I had really wanted to knit myself a pair of fingerless mitts.  My hands get so cold when I am out doing the chores, but mittens – and even gloves – are clumsy or get splashed with water and then make my hands even colder.  Sometimes I remember to wear something with pockets, but unfortunately my warmest clothes don’t have pockets (it’s hard to actually find good, practical warm clothes in Florida!).

When I had first started to knit about five years ago, I had tried out a cabled fingerless glove pattern – I only had enough yarn for one, because I had used some left-over yarn from another project, and I wasn’t good at eye-balling it yet.  The one glove was heavenly – I would transfer it from hand to hand to share the warmth – and like all wool, it was warm even if it was wet.  I kept thinking I would buy more yarn and knit the next one, but then that one got lost, and I never got around to another pair.

Until now….

I thought this would be a nice February knit.  Knitting on it made me think of strawberries, raspberries and chocolate!  I love the way the color rounds make little hearts.  I hope you enjoy it also –

– Little Hearts Mitts –
Gauge:  6sts/inch
Needles:  6″ double-pointed needles size 3.50 mm (US 4)
Yarn:  2 skeins Quince & Co “Chickadee” in bark color (Main color, or MC)
1 skein Drops Alpaca #3770 Fuscia (Contrasting Color 1 or CC#1)
1 skein Drops Alpaca #3720 Pink Violet (Contrasting Color 2 or CC#2)
1 skein Drops Alpaca #3112 Dusty Pink (Contrasting Color 3 or CC#3)
Also have on hand 5 stitch markers or loops of scrap yarn
Note:  I haven’t tried it, but if you need a larger/ smaller size, you could probably add or subtract the number of stitches on N2 and N4.  You would have to change the decrease rows to decrease in the middle of whatever number of stitches you chose.
 
Also, I used a marker to mark the end of each round, rather than a beginning-of-round marker.  With all the markers on N1, I found it got too crowded.  You might not need an ending marker – it’s only purpose was to alert me that I had finished the round – but it was certainly helpful when I was reading aloud to the children and knitting at the same time!

Size:  I made these to fit my wrists.  These are my measurements that I made the pattern around:  10.5 inches/27 cm near the elbow, 6.5 inches/ 16.5 cm at the wrist, 8 inches/20.5cm from bottom of cuff to wristbone.  My palm is 8 inches/20cm around.  The cuff is close-fitting (I made several early, floppier versions, and I think this version is just right).  The garter stitch borders keep the cuff from curling annoyingly.

– Make two –
To begin:  Cast on 52 sts with the long-tail cast on, and distribute over 4 needles as follows:
N1:  10 sts
N2:  16 sts
N3:  10 sts
N4:  16 sts
Using the tail to mark the beginning of the round, start the six rounds of garter stitch for the bottom border:
R1:  K (knit all sts)
R2:  P (purl all sts)
R3:  K
R4:  P
R5:  K
R6:  P
R7:  Decorative Yarn Over (YO) border:  *YO, K2tog* until end of round.
R8:  K
R9: – Marker placement –
N1: K4, place marker (M), K2, place M, K4
N2:  K all sts
N3:  K4, place M, K2, place M, K4
N4:  K until 1 st remains, place M to mark end of round (slip this marker on all rounds)
R10: (Yarn Over row – this stays the same for the entire mitt)
N1 and N3:  K4, sl M, YO K2 tog, sl M, K4
N2 and 4:  K all sts
R11:  – Decrease round #1 –
N1 and N3:  K all sts and slip all markers
N2 and N4:  K7, K2tog, K7 (15 sts each on N2 and N4 – 50 sts total)
R12:  Colorwork Round #1 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #1* , repeating from * to * until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.
R13:  YO row
R14-15:  K all sts
R16:  YO Row
R17:  Decrease Round #2 –
N1 and N3:  K all sts and slip all markers
N2 and N4:  K7, K2tog, K6 (14 sts on N2 and N4, 48 sts total on all needles)
R18:  Colorwork Round #2 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #2* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.
R19:  YO row
R20-21:  K all sts
R22:  YO row
R23:  Decrease Round #3 –
N1 and N3:  K all sts and slip all markers
N2 and N4:  K6, K2tog, K6 (13 sts on N2 and N4, 46 sts total on all needles)
R24: Colorwork Round #3 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #3* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.
R25:  YO row
R26-27:  K all sts
R28:  YO row
R29:  K all sts
R30:  Colorwork Round #4 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #1* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.
R31: YO row
R32-33: K all sts
R34: YO row
R35: Decrease Round #4 –
N1 and N3:  K all sts and slip all markers
N2 and N4:  K5, K2tog, K6 (12 sts on N2 and N4, 44 sts total on all needles)
 
R36:  Colorwork Round #5 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #2* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.
R37:  YO row
R38-39:  K all sts
R40:  YO row
R41:  K all sts
R42:  Colorwork Round # 6 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #3* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.
R43:  YO row
R44-45:  K all sts
R46:  YO row
R47:  Decrease Round #5 –
N1 and N3:  K all sts and slip all markers
N2 and N4:  K5, K2tog, K5 (11 sts on N2 and N4, 42 sts total on all needles)
R48: Colorwork Round #7 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #1* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.
R49:  YO row
R50-51:  K all sts

R52:  YO row

R53:  K all sts

R54:  Colorwork Round #8 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #2* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.

R55:  YO row

R56-57:  K all sts

R58:  YO row

R59:  Decrease Round # 6 (last decrease) –

N1 and N3:  K all sts and slip all markers
N2 and N4:  K4, K2tog, K5 (10 sts on N2 and N4, 40 sts total on all needles)

R60: Colorwork Round #9 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #3* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.

R61:  YO row

R62-63:  K all sts

R64:  YO row

R65:  K all sts

R66:  Colorwork Round #10 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #1* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.

R67:  YO row

R68-69:  K all sts

R70:  YO row

R71:  K all sts

R72:  Colorwork Round # 11 –  *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #2* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.

R73:  YO row

R74-75:  K all sts

R76:  YO row

R77:  K all sts

R78:  Colorwork Round #12 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #3* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.

R79:  YO row

R80-81:  K all sts

R82:  YO row

R83:  K all sts

R84:  Colorwork Round # 13 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #1* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.

R85:  YO row

R86-87:  K all sts

R88:  YO row

R89:  K all sts

R90:  Colorwork Round #14 –  *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #2* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.

R91:  YO row

R92-93:  K all sts

R94: YO row

R95:  K all sts

R96:  Colorwork Round #15 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #3* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.

R97:  YO row

R98:  Cast-off for thumb –

N1:  Cast off all sts, removing both markers as you go.  Set N1 aside for now.  You’ll need it again in a minute.

N2, N3 and N4:  K all sts

R99:  Shape thumb hole:  Cast on 4 sts onto the needle that had been N1, place marker, cast on 2, place second marker, cast on 4 more sts.  Now move on to N2, N3 and N4 – knitting all sts, of course.

R100:  YO row – skip the YO on N1 for this round (I found it too tricky with the newly cast-on sts, however, if you are adept enough, YO here if you’d like.  It does not stand out at all to skip this one, I should add.)

R101:  K all sts

R102:  Colorwork Round #16 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #1* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.

R103:  YO row

R104-105:  K all sts

R106:  YO row

R107:  K all sts

R108:  Colorwork Round #17 – *K1 in MC, K1 in CC #2* until end of round.  Switch back to MC again for the next round.

R109:  YO row

R110-111:  K all sts

R112:  YO row

R113:  K – remove all except the end-of-round marker.

R114:  Decorative YO border:  *YO, K2tog* until end.

R15:  P all sts

R16:  K all sts

R17:  P all sts

R18:  K all sts

R19:  P all sts

R120:  Cast off with stretchy cast off:  *K2 together through the back of the loop, slip st back on to left needle* and repeat from * to *, until all sts are cast off.

Thumb:  Begining on inside of palm, pick up 18 sts along thumb-hole on 3 needles, 6 sts per needle.

K 3 rounds

1st decrease on R4:  K1, K2tg, K until 3 sts remain on N3, K2tog through the back of the loops (a left-leaning decrease that I prefer to SSK, though you could SSK here, if you prefer), K1.

K 2 rounds

2nd decrease on R7:  K1, K2tg, K until 3 sts remain on N3, K2tog through the back of the loops (a left-leaning decrease that I prefer to SSK, though you could SSK here, if you prefer), K1.

Begin 5 rounds of garter sts, starting with Purling.

R8:  P

R9:  K

R10:  P

R11: K

R12:  P

R13:  Cast off all sts with the stretchy cast-off above.  Weave in ends (there are a lot of them!)

Please write to me with any questions!

9 Comments Add yours

  1. Donna says:

    Aren't those adorable? Thank you so much for sharing the pattern!

    Like

  2. Elaine says:

    Love those mitts! than you for sharing your pattern

    Like

  3. Love the mitts and especially those amazing pictures with your gorgeous chicken too!

    Like

  4. kathy b says:

    Beautiful mitts. Thank you for the pattern!!!

    Like

  5. Angie says:

    Thanks for the kind comments, everyone! If anyone does knit these up, let me know how they turn out!

    Like

  6. Martha says:

    Pretty mitts. ♥ We had a beautiful barred rock like her who passed away last year.

    Like

  7. Cathy says:

    Since I have such cold hands, I wear mitts all winter long and love how they give me the ability to go about doing things, inside or out. I absolutely love the length of your mitts, and I hope to make a pair in the future. How kind you are to give the pattern. Your photo is wonderful.

    Like

  8. Angie says:

    Sorry to hear! I love the barred rocks – they are such intelligent, hardy chickens. We tried the Americaunas for their pretty eggs last time we ordered chicks, but they were such a pain! Their eggs were gorgeous, but they were so silly and were mean to the other chickens. Thanks for writing!

    Like

  9. Angie says:

    Thank you! Let me know how they turn out!

    Like

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